Ochmir Pieces
Materials
Two Handed Prototype
Two Handed Final
Three Handed
Ochmir
Orangeness
Materials

What do you make game pieces out of?

  • card - by far the simplest option, particularly for pieces made at home. Easy to work with, cheap. Can be laminated for extra durability, but card pieces tend not to last long unless they're made from heavy stock.

    Definitely the experimenter's friend, though.

    For ochmir, pieces made from card would not last long because of the constant battering the pieces will get (being bounced around in a bag, for instance). The most durable option would be to use thick card as a core and then stick appropriately coloured paper or thin card on either side to get the sides colour correctly.

  • wood - I can imagine some really nice pieces being made from wood, and it wouldn't be too hard to mass produce them, but the staining would be harder than it would be with card. Some kind of carving or router work would be desirable for the markings.

    I think wooden pieces would be nice for ochmir: they would be durable (especially if nicely varnished) and would feel good in the hand. I won't be making these until I've got a better idea of good piece proportions, though.

  • clay (or other modelling material) - I've done quite a lot of work with an epoxy putty called Milliput would would be a good material for this kind of application. It's light, strong and durable, and takes paint very well. It would be quite hard to mass manufacture with, however, since you'd need to press it into a mould to get a consistent shape for the pieces. Other materials in a similar vein might be too brittle for this application, unfortunately (at least based on my experience of other modelling clays).

    I'd like to play a game with a well made set of pieces of this type, but I'm struggling to think about how I'd make these myself.

  • plastic - the kind of injection moulded plastic pieces found in so many board games would be impractical for home manufacture, but resin pieces might work very well. Indeed, if you were working with stone powder in a resin matrix then I think you'd get very good results - I have a set of rune tiles made from this material which would be a very good approximation to how I would like my ochmir tiles to be.

    Like making pieces from a clay-like substance, however, using a resin would require moulds be prepared. You could add colour to the resin to save painting the different sides of the pieces, but great care would need to be taken in pouring to avoid unwanted mixing.

    These pieces would probably be pretty much indestructible too, which would be nice.

    Note that I have been thinking about these pieces primarily as triangular, but there is no reason why they could not be hexagonal (which would be very much in keeping with the theme of sixes) or circular. Lenticular pieces would be very pleasing, especially of made out of a stone/resin mix, and it might be reasonable to buy some good go stones of this form and mark them up using the proper symbols. Varnishing the stones would be necessary to preserve any paint, of course.

  • metal - I don't think this would work. Quite apart from the impracticality of home manufacture, the colour would have to be painted on and would inevitably chip off in the jouncing which these pieces would see in the bag.

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Two-Handed Pieces: Prototype

Making a really good set of pieces will have to wait until good relative proportions for the piece values have been determined. Figuring out those proportions is a job for a prototype, or series of protoypes.

A good prototype medium would be card. I am thinking a good construction option would be to take a piece of blue paper, and a piece of white paper, and paste these on either side of a piece of firm card stock. The adhesive must be applied evenly and completely so that the paper will stick to the underlying card wherever it might be cut.

The pieces are then laid out using a similar format to the board, and will be marked up with the proper values prior to cutting. This will result in triangular pieces. You could also have square or hexagonal pieces - indeed, hexagonal pieces may be prefereble, but I'm going to stick with triangular for now because they are easier to lay out and make since it would be all straight cuts.

Rather than pasting paper onto the card, another approach would be to use card with a fine finish on both sides then paint it in the proper colours, although laying out the pieces directly onto the finished surface would be harder than attaching a printed sheet of paper.

My thinking is that there should be a different set of pieces for each prototype version, and that these pieces would be marked with a colour code.

The protoype proportions are as follows:

red - only 1 leremoc for each colour, on the other side of a ferrorn; 6 thurin for each colour, five of which are backed by ferrorn and the remaining one has a thurin on the other side.

This piece layout should be used for both sides of a hexagonal cutout, although one side should be coloured blue.

green - 3 leremoc for each colour, one each backed by a ferrorn, thurin and leremoc; 18 thurin for each colour, one backed by a leremoc, five backed by thurin and the remainder have ferrorn on the other side.

This piece layout should be used for both sides of a hexagonal cutout, although one side should be coloured blue.

blue - 6 leremoc for each colour, one on the other side of a leremoc, two backed by thurin, and the remaining three by ferrorn; 36 thurin for each colour, two of which are backed by leremoc, ten backed by thurin, and the remainder have ferrorn on the other side.

This piece layout should be used for both sides of a hexagonal cutout, although one side should be coloured blue.

Here is an initial implementation of the above prototype piece sets, created by printing each of these images out then laminating them together with two sheets of thin card and then colouring in one side blue. Care had to be taken that the glue covered every part of the surface. This is from before the pieces have been cut up, of course.

In this picture, the red and green prototypes are showing their blue side, while the blue prototype is showing its white side. The blue is much clearer in person!

26-Jun-2004 - the above prototypes did not work well. The glue I used was too brittle once dry, and the pieces themselves were too small. I've realised these prototype pieces by scaling the images up by 50%, colouring the whites blue, and then only printing one side of some mid-weight card (240g weight). The backs were marked up with corresponding symbols by hand, then were cut out. These pieces are not as durable as the laminated pieces would have been, but there has been none of the separation of layers either which has meant I have spent zero time sticking piece faces back on.

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Two-Handed Pieces: Final

To be completed once the prototype has been worked through.

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Three-Handed Pieces

To be completed once more thought has been put into the practicalities of the three-handed game.

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Ochmir Pieces
Materials
Two Handed Prototype
Two Handed Final
Three Handed
Ochmir
Orangeness
Last updated 27-June-2004